How to Make Your Own Delovely Rug Hooking Frame

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The Delovely Frame is unique in that you don't have to bend your neck to look at your work. If you're like me, and you spend many hours rug hooking, you'll appreciate this great design. Made from light but sturdy PVC pipe, it converts easily from a lap frame to a floor frame. It works perfectly for hooking yarn, wool fabric strips and T-shirt strips. Even punching (although you will want to include an extra set of clamps on the top and bottom)! There are no nails to cut you or snag your work, and all of the materials to make this frame are readily available.

This design is for personal use only (patent pending), not for sale.
You will need: 
(A) 3-10' long  3/4" PVC pipes, 200 psi
(B) 4-3/4" dia 45 degreePVC sch 40 Slip Elbows
(C) 4-3/4" dia 90 degree PVC sch 40 Side Outlet Elbows
(D) 12-3/4" dia PVC sch 40 Tees
(E) 4-3/4" dia PVC sch 40 Caps
2-OXO Large Kitchen Clamps (or 4 if you want them on top and bottom as well)
Goop Glue
Rubber Shelf Liner, cut into 2-3.5"x7" and 2-3.5"x18.5"
Toothpicks
Cut your PVC pipe into the following lengths:

8-1"
2-1.5"
2-2.5"
6-4"
2-5.5"
6-8"
4-20"
2-22.5"
2-26.5"

After you cut your pipes, it's a good idea to slip them together (without glueing) to check if the dimensions work for you. That way, you can cut different lengths to suit you.

Step 1: Making the first side section.
Using a toothpick, slather Goop Glue into one end of (C) (the 3-way corner bits) and insert one 4" pipe. Put glue in another (C) and stick it on the other end of the 4" pipe.

Step 2: Slather glue into the middle of a Tee (D) and insert a 4" pipe. Slather glue into the middle of another Tee and stick it on the other end of the 4" pipe. Then line it up so it's the same length as the section in step one.

(Goop glue doesn't dry for 24 hours, so you have a little time to adjust all your angles, then you will let the frame dry for 24 hours)

Step 3: (Adding to the two pieces you made in steps one and two) Slather glue in the bottom of both (C) units and insert an 8" pipe in each.

Step 4: Slather glue into the end of a Tee and stick it on the end of one of the 8" pipes. Repeat for the other 8" pipe. Line the middle holes of the Tees so they stick straight up.

Step 5: Slather glue into the other end of the Tee on the 8" pipe and insert a 1" pipe. Repeat for the other 8" pipe side.

Step 6:  Slather glue into the end of a Tee to connect the bottom of the side section to the top. Repeat for the other side. Repeat steps one through six to create the other side section.

Step 7: Lay the side sections together and adjust the angles so everything seems square and all the openings line up.

Step 8: Insert your cross-bars (20" pipe) into one of the side sections. DO NOT GLUE the cross-bars, just slip them in place. This way, your frame will be collapsible and can fit in your rug hooking bag.

Step 9: Slip the other side section on the cross-bars. Turn the frame section so the open Tees are on top.

Step 10: Slather glue into one of the open Tees and insert a 1" pipe. Repeat this for the other three open Tees. (in the photo, the Tee in front has the 1" pipe inserted, the one in the back doesn't.)

Step 11: Slather glue into one of the 45 degree elbows and put onto one of the 1" pipes, facing toward the back. (In the photo, the elbows have been added in the front, in the back you can see the 1" pipes where the elbows will be added next)


Step 12: Lay the frame on its front and put the two 5.5" pipes in the front elbows and the two 1.5" pipes in the back elbows. DO NOT GLUE THESE IN PLACE. These are your lap frame legs. You will be able to easlily convert your frame from a lap frame to a floor frame (or a standing frame, see below) by slipping in a different set of legs.

Step 13: Making the feet. Slather glue into the end of a Tee and insert a 2.5" pipe. Repeat this in another Tee and stick it onto the 2.5" pipe.





Step 14: Hold this piece up to the lap frame legs (step thirteen) and adjust the length so the Tee holes line up with the lap frame legs.




Step 15: Slather glue into one of the Tees and insert a 4" pipe.


Step 16: Slather glue into the other Tee and insert an 8" pipe.


Step 17: Slather glue into one of the end caps (E) and stick it onto the 4" pipe. Slather glue on another end cap and stick it onto the 8" pipe. Repeat steps 13-17 to create the other foot section.


Step 18: Slip the feet onto the lap frame legs, with the shorter section (4" pipe) toward the front. DO NOT GLUE.


Step 19: Adding the rubberized material. Lay the frame on its side. Slather glue to the inside of one of the 8" pipes. Lay the material on the glue. Turn the frame to add more glue all around the pipe, and wrap the material around the pipe. This is a good time to check that the legs and feet are laying nice and flat on the table, so everything dries square. Repeat this step for the 8" pipe on the other front side of the frame.

Step 20: Lay the frame on its top. Slather glue on the 20" cross-bar in front (same side as the 8" pipes in step nineteen). Lay the rubberized material on the pipe. Turn the frame so you can slather glue all around the pipe, and wrap the material around the pipe.



Step 21: Lay the frame on its front. Slather glue on the bottom 20" cross-bar. Lay the rubberized material over the glue. Turn the frame so you can slather glue all around the pipe, and wrap the material around.

Step 22: Let the frame dry in this configuration. This is a good time to check once again that all your angles are correct and the frame looks square.

You might notice you have four leftover pipes (2-22.5" and 2-26.5"). These are your floor frame legs. You might want to use these when you're going to be sitting in a folded chair, etc.

Step 23: This is totally optional, but a really good idea. Rug hooking is a sedentary activity, and sometimes it's good to get up off that chair. If you want to do this, you'll want to cut an extra set of longer legs. I'm 5'5", so for my height, I cut 2-42.75" pipes for the front and 2-38.75" pipes for the back. I really appreciate this option when I'm in my booth at a show, rug hooking for 8-10 hours a day.

To change the legs from a lap frame to a floor frame (or a standing frame), you don't need to remove the rug from the frame. Just lay the frame face down, remove the current legs, stick on the new ones, and put the feet on the ends. 

Putting your rug on the frame: Lay your design on the frame where you want to work. Clamp down one side, then tug on the other side, while applying the other clamp.

Phew! You did it! Let me know if these instructions work for you or how I can make the instructions clearer.

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